{"id":252,"date":"2011-07-31T21:01:42","date_gmt":"2011-07-31T20:01:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/?p=252"},"modified":"2012-06-09T21:10:38","modified_gmt":"2012-06-09T20:10:38","slug":"die-riesling-manufaktur","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/","title":{"rendered":"Die Riesling Manufaktur"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Johannes Schmitz isn\u2019t your typical Moselian, his <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rebenhof.de\/\" target=\"_blank\">Rebenhof winery<\/a> on the southern edge of \u00dcrzig is testimony to that. In contrast to an otherwise traditional Mosel village his glass, steel and concrete monument to the 21st Century proudly pronounces the establishment as a \u201cRiesling Manufaktur\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>As a self-confessed Riesling lover I\u2019ve known about \u00dcrzig and its W\u00fcrzgarten (Spice Garden) vineyard for many years, so I was thrilled when I saw the name appear on the Sat-Nav screen as I drove up the Mosel, heading for the town of Bernkastel-Keus. The scenery matches much of the region &#8211; slopes with impossible angles rising from the riverside, carpeted with vines \u2013 but stands out more than most with gashes of red on the cliff-face as the river loops past the village of Erden, on the opposite bank (famous for its Pr\u00e4lat and Treppchen vineyards).<a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/urzigs-spice-garden\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-253\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-253\" title=\"Urzig's Spice Garden\" src=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Urzigs-Spice-Garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1224\" height=\"588\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Urzigs-Spice-Garden.jpg 1224w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Urzigs-Spice-Garden-200x96.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Urzigs-Spice-Garden-400x192.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1224px) 100vw, 1224px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s the rock colour that helps make \u00dcrzig wines distinctive from the neighbours; the W\u00fcrzgarten grows on Permian (299 to 251Mya) sandstone, volcanic rhyolite and red Slate, contrasting the primarily Devonian (416 to 359Mya) blue-grey slate that much of the Mosel (-Saar-Ruwer) sits atop. The dark, iron-rich soil retains heat well and affects Riesling\u2019s flavour profile, giving an earthy spiciness that explains the vineyard name.<\/p>\n<p>A short walk around the village initially didn\u2019t throw any surprises;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Steep Riesling vineyards \u2026 check<\/li>\n<li>Quaint, old-style houses, narrow streets and alleyways \u2026 check<\/li>\n<li>Traditional, Gothic script \u201cWeingut\u201d frontage signs \u2026 check<\/li>\n<li>Everything looking shut even though it\u2019s Saturday afternoon &#8230; check!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>After a good hour wandering I ended up on H\u00fcwel street, on the southern edge of the village, and the last building suddenly came into view with banner-flags flying, a patio-style seating area out front and framed by vines on the slopes behind. Intrigued by this sharp contrast of modernity plus the fact that it was clearly open for business (people visible at the tasting bar confirmed this, a bonus of glass fronted buildings!) I walked in and let the tasting begin.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/new-weingut\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-255\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-255\" title=\"New Weingut\" src=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/New-Weingut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1109\" height=\"610\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/New-Weingut.jpg 1109w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/New-Weingut-200x110.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/New-Weingut-400x220.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1109px) 100vw, 1109px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>A charming woman obligingly poured a first glass and we exchanged pleasantries in her broken English and my broken German, but when I started asking some more involved questions she hesitated, clearly not completely comfortable with the language, and called over a man to take her place at the bar. This turned out to be Johannes Schmitz, the owner and winemaker of Rebenhof (the woman was Doris Schmitz, his wife) who was more confident with English and we quickly got talking about each of the wines he poured, as well as the winery and winemaking.<\/p>\n<p>Rebenhof (literal translation, Vineyard) was founded in 1875 or 1884 (depending where you read) but it wasn\u2019t until 1990 that its current incarnation began when Johannes took over from his father, Paul. There are 4.4 hectares producing 35-40,000 bottles of Riesling with an average vine age of 60 years, although some are over a century old. 80% of the plantings are on original, ungrafted rootstock with average yields of 65hl\/ha &#8211; the Kabinett often comes in at 80hl\/ha while the Alte Reben (Old Vine, from 80+ y.o. plants) is less than 40hl\/ha.<br \/>\nNormal harvest time is late October, however, in line with other European wine regions, the 2011 harvest is likely to be early with the Riesling grapes already 4-5 weeks ahead of normal development, as discussed in my <a title=\"Greybeard's Corner - June 2011\" href=\"http:\/\/kslaczko.posterous.com\/greybeards-corner-june-2011\" target=\"_blank\">June Greybeard\u2019s Corner post<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/old-weingut\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-254\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright  wp-image-254\" title=\"Old Weingut\" src=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Old-Weingut-400x273.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"318\" height=\"217\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Old-Weingut-400x273.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Old-Weingut-200x136.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Old-Weingut.jpg 894w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 318px) 100vw, 318px\" \/><\/a>I asked about the new building we were standing in, only opened last year, and the obvious difference to the rest of the village. Johannes is happy to admit he is not enough of a romantic to blindly follow tradition and practicality won out when expanding from the old building just down the street (which now doubles as a guesthouse).<\/p>\n<p>This modern business attitude is carried through into the winemaking and general running of the winery as well with the use of Stelvin closures and a high export rate of wines outside Germany. Unfortunately things like this haven\u2019t made him too popular amongst his \u00dcrzig peers &#8211; one can almost imagine the older generation gathering behind closed curtains complaining of this \u201cupstart\u201d and his new fangled ideas!<\/p>\n<p>Unsurprisingly Johannes doesn\u2019t shirk away from media attention either. Along with the likes of <a title=\"B50neu.de\" href=\"http:\/\/b50neu.de\/html\/presse\/B50-WeinE.html\" target=\"_blank\">Ernst Loosen, Markus Molitor and others<\/a> he is an outspoken critic of the controversial Hochmosel\u00fcbergang bridge which will be painfully visible as it crosses the river just upstream from \u00dcrzig. German speakers can read more of Schmitz in this anti-bridge article from the <a href=\"http:\/\/content.stuttgarter-zeitung.de\/stz\/page\/2858254_0_9223_--quot-wer-will-schon-unter-einer-bruecke-urlaub-machen-quot-.html\" target=\"_blank\">Stuttgarter Zeitung<\/a> and see him talking about Rebenhof on a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=MDqoOyxGAQU\" target=\"_blank\">YouTube clip<\/a> from earlier this year.<\/p>\n<p>As for the wines, we tasted our way through a dozen different styles and vintages of Riesling starting with a dry Kabinett, the <strong>2010 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Von wurzelechten Reben<\/strong> (<em>from ungrafted vines<\/em>, 12% abv). This was the only reference in print to the 80% of all the Rebenhof vines being on original rootstock, a key marketing point for some other wineries but not for Schmitz who lets the wine quality speak for itself.<br \/>\nThis had a creamy nose with a little perfume, a rich texture, a dry mid-palate with a little spice and a strong honey finish &#8211; a solid 3 star wine.<br \/>\nThe <strong>2009 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Trocken<\/strong> (12.5%) had a similar nose to the Kabinett with more concentration and a richer texture, a spritz at the front, more minerality and a long finish with a touch of honey at the end.<br \/>\nThe <strong>2010 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Trocken Alte Reben<\/strong> (13.5%) had a deep, dark nose with dense flavours and an earthy rawness to it \u2013 a truly delicious 4 star wine. At 13.5%, it was a full percentage point higher partly due to the old vine grapes but also the 2010 vintage itself, something of an aberration in the region producing ultra low-yield wines compared to previous vintages. This was recently highlighted by Jon Bonn\u00e9 in his SFGate post \u201c<a title=\"SFGate\" href=\"http:\/\/insidescoopsf.sfgate.com\/blog\/2011\/07\/01\/germanys-bizarro-2010-vintage\/\" target=\"_blank\">Germany\u2019s Bizarro 2010 vintage<\/a>\u201d (memorable for the line \u201c<em>a vintage that wants to Taser me into appreciation<\/em>\u201d).<br \/>\nNext we moved up in residual sugar to the <strong>2009 Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling Kabinett Feinherb<\/strong> (11%). Without the <em>W\u00fcrzgarten<\/em> provenance Schmitz identifies the soil type as the wine\u2019s selling point, <em>Roten Schiefer<\/em> being the famous red slate of the area. The wine had a clean yet creamy nose with good acidity to balance the increased sugar and a marked minerality.<br \/>\nFeinherb is simply a term used to denote wines of approximately 9 to 18g\/l of residual sugar, replacing the less fashionable Halbtrocken (half-dry) in today\u2019s marketing conscious world.<br \/>\nWe stayed with that style with the <strong>2009 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Feinherb Alte Reben<\/strong> (11.5%) which had a warm, buttery nose with a sweet lemon &amp; lime spritz at the front. This was a well balanced 3+ star wine with restrained sugar, a dry mid-palate, classic minerality and a grapefruit finish.<br \/>\nThe vintage contrast became apparent with its younger sibling, the <strong>2010 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Feinherb Alte Reben<\/strong> (13%). This was golden in the glass with a honey and candied tropical fruit nose, a big wine with more noticeable sugar to go along with the hike in alcohol. Unfortunately it didn\u2019t have the elegance of the \u201909 with the fuller flavours not marrying together, give it a few more years though and this could be superb.<br \/>\nWe moved away from \u00dcrzig as Johannes poured a taste of <strong>2010 Grauer Schiefer Riesling<\/strong>, grown on the grey slate of the <em>L\u00f6snicher F\u00f6rsterlay<\/em> vineyard further downstream. This was intended to contrast the W\u00fcrzgarten and indeed showed a different fruit profile, sweeter and in a more easy drinking style, almost a palate cleanser for the high sugar wines about to follow, starting with the <strong>2009 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Alte Reben<\/strong> (9%).<br \/>\nThis was much richer with a smoky nose and a pleasant fresh apple aspect along with its delicate sweetness. Delicate was not an apt descriptor for the <strong>2010 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Sp\u00e4tlese Alte Reben<\/strong> (8%) which continued the theme of this vintage having extra depth. It was beautifully complex with a perfumed nose and a honeyed richness \u2013 another 4 star wine.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/late-picked-rebenhof\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-256\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-256\" title=\"Late picked Rebenhof\" src=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Late-picked-Rebenhof.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"931\" height=\"507\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Late-picked-Rebenhof.jpg 931w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Late-picked-Rebenhof-200x108.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Late-picked-Rebenhof-400x217.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 931px) 100vw, 931px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Then came the <strong>2008 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Auslese<\/strong> (9%), although, as the grapes were picked at -10\u00baC on 30th December, it met all the criteria for an Eiswein (but Schmitz didn\u2019t want to label it as such, only putting \u201cKleine Eiswein\u201d on the back label). This was a very dense wine with a sweet baked honey nose and a very long finish, another 4 stars.<br \/>\nThe <strong>2010 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Auslese, Fass Nr. 12<\/strong> (7.5%) was a more traditional Auselese with a tropical fruit nose. It was good, but I felt it suffered in comparison to the little Eiswein as it had a simpler sweetness.<br \/>\nFollowing the principle of saving the best until the end the final wine poured was simply superb, as long as you don\u2019t mind a bit of sugar! The 4 star <strong>2009 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Beerenauslese<\/strong> showed candied fruit on the nose, deeply sweet but beautifully balanced with gentle elegance and preserved fruit flavours on a long finish. The wine had a long life ahead of it where it would develop greater complexity, but for now it coated the mouth with rich, sweet fruit.<br \/>\nUnfortunately for \u20ac45 a half-bottle this was too rich for my budget, almost twice the price of the \u201908 Auslese (\u20ac24.50) and over three times as much as the various Alte Reben bottles (\u20ac13.50). Still, I happily put together a mixed 6 bottle case from these as I finished off interrogating Herr Schmitz for a few last facts.<\/p>\n<p>I mentioned earlier that Rebenhof is unusual for many Mosel wineries as it exports the majority of its wines, 65% to be precise as far afield as Beijing and Shanghai. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/winery-dining\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-257\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright  wp-image-257\" title=\"Winery dining\" src=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Winery-dining-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"221\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Winery-dining-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Winery-dining-99x150.jpg 99w, https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Winery-dining.jpg 473w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 221px) 100vw, 221px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nSchmitz shows common sense here as well as he keeps each individual allocation small and spread over many countries to shield against the normal market fluctuations. It\u2019s a principle that has saved him a lot of pain as, in 2002 &amp; \u201903, his US importer (based in Chicago) offered to take the entire production but Schmitz declined, which was just as well as the same importer hardly ordered a case in \u201907 and \u201908.<\/p>\n<div data-posterous-file-list=\"%5B%7B%22large%22%3A%22http%3A%2F%2Fgetfile7.posterous.com%2Fgetfile%2Ffiles.posterous.com%2Ftemp-2011-07-20%2FbxwpICeEDgDegnCAueenCcEjmwAmAdracqIxdHAsagjznrvmEtFunbnflkui%2FWinery_dining.jpg.scaled1000.jpg%22%2C%22originalWidth%22%3A%22882%22%2C%22largeWidth%22%3A%22666%22%2C%22thumb%22%3A%22http%3A%2F%2Fgetfile9.posterous.com%2Fgetfile%2Ffiles.posterous.com%2Ftemp-2011-07-20%2FbxwpICeEDgDegnCAueenCcEjmwAmAdracqIxdHAsagjznrvmEtFunbnflkui%2FWinery_dining.jpg.thumb.jpg%22%2C%22originalHeight%22%3A%221325%22%2C%22largeHeight%22%3A%221000%22%2C%22thumbWidth%22%3A%2236%22%2C%22height%22%3A%221052%22%2C%22main%22%3A%22http%3A%2F%2Fgetfile9.posterous.com%2Fgetfile%2Ffiles.posterous.com%2Ftemp-2011-07-20%2FbxwpICeEDgDegnCAueenCcEjmwAmAdracqIxdHAsagjznrvmEtFunbnflkui%2FWinery_dining.jpg.scaled700.jpg%22%2C%22thumbHeight%22%3A%2236%22%2C%22originalSize%22%3A%22246%22%2C%22original%22%3A%22http%3A%2F%2Fgetfile3.posterous.com%2Fgetfile%2Ffiles.posterous.com%2Ftemp-2011-07-20%2FbxwpICeEDgDegnCAueenCcEjmwAmAdracqIxdHAsagjznrvmEtFunbnflkui%2FWinery_dining.jpg%22%2C%22width%22%3A%22700%22%7D%5D\" data-posterous-image-gallery-initialized=\"true\" data-posterous-image-gallery=\"true\" data-posterous-options=\"%7B%22zipFile%22%3Anull%2C%22zipFileSize%22%3Anull%2C%22external_url%22%3Anull%2C%22showDownload%22%3Atrue%2C%22url_slug%22%3A%22die-riesling-manufaktur%22%7D\"><\/div>\n<p>I finally closed my notebook, paid for my wine and left Johannes and Doris preparing for the arrival 100 guests that evening for a wine &amp; dine party, another good use of that polished new building on the edge of \u00dcrzig.<\/p>\n<p><em>Prost!<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Subsequently published on <a title=\"Die Riesling Manufaktur - Reign of Terroir\" href=\"http:\/\/reignofterroir.com\/2011\/07\/31\/urzig%E2%80%99s-spice-garden-die-riesling-manufaktur\/\" target=\"_blank\">Reign of Terroir<\/a>, July 31st 2011.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Johannes Schmitz isn\u2019t your typical Moselian, his Rebenhof winery on the southern edge of \u00dcrzig is testimony to that. In contrast to an otherwise traditional Mosel village his glass, steel and concrete monument to the 21st Century proudly pronounces the &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/die-riesling-manufaktur\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":256,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[23,43],"tags":[33,40,37,39,25,38,50,41,58],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/252"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=252"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/252\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":260,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/252\/revisions\/260"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/256"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=252"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=252"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=252"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}