\nDomaine Fran\u00e7ois Chidaine<\/a> Le Clos du Breuil <\/strong>2009, Montlouis, Loire (Chenin Blanc, 13.5% abv, \u00a314.00).
\nFran\u00e7ois Chidaine follows biodynamic viticulture but does not mention this on his bottles even though the estate has been certified since 2003. Montlouis Chenin Blancs are typically more crisp and mineral than those from Vouvray and the Clos de Breuil vineyard, grown on a soil-type known locally as \u201cles perruches\u201d, is known for its flinty character. With 6 months in wood this wine was made following Chidaine\u2019s goal to produce \u201cvibrant wines that age gracefully\u201d.<\/p>\n
There was a floral, honeyed richness on the nose. On taste there was clean, lemony acidity at the front of the palate (maybe too much) with a sharp minerality. The mid-palate took on a honeyed fruit aspect with with hints of apple, almond and pear and it had a strong, warming finish.
\n3 stars overall.<\/p>\n
To Alsace next, and one of the oldest wineries in the region. Maison L\u00e9on Beyer has a The Pinot Gris had a rich golden colour with a deep floral nose. There was a bitter attack which dropped off quickly on the honeyed mid-palate into a warming finish with an underlying grapefruit bitterness throughout. The texture was not as thick as expected from the nose, but some members thought it was a little creamy heading towards \u201cfat\u201d. Domaine de la Janasse was established in 1973 by Aim\u00e9 Sabon and is now maintained by his grandchildren Christophe and Isabelle (who took over the winemaking from their father, Christophe, in 1991). The winery covers several Rh\u00f4ne appellations but is based in the heart of the C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne whose the AOC rules for white are for a blend as opposed to single varietal. The Viognier is therefore labelled as an IGP (ex Vin de Pays) but the website confirms the inferred quality with a reference to \u201cCondrieu selection\u201d with only 5000 bottles a year produced.<\/p>\n This wine had a beautiful sweet peach and tangerine aroma which penetrated my cold ridden nose! There was a sweet bitterness of orange oil and waxy stone-fruit underneath, well balanced, dry and complex with a warming finish. So to the reds and a detour into the Languedoc before retracing our steps. This 50% Carignan 25% Grenache 25% Mouverdre blend had a deep, dark colour suggesting more youthfulness than the label. There was sweet ripe fruit on the nose and a touch of sourness. There were dry, desiccating tannins with muted fruit on the taste and base textures in the mouth. Other members said it had good balance with leather, liquorice and tobacco. Then back to the Rh\u00f4ne with a Vacqueyras, often referred to as the little brother of Gigondas and Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape. This was a blend of 55% Grenache 40% Syrah and 5% Carignan and showed a delicate nose with some Violet while in the mouth there were firm tannins and a peppery dry aspect in the mouth with firm tannins. From start to finish there was a straightforward progression of textures and flavours, this is a young and simple wine, very easy drinking but uncomplicated and lacking depth. From the baby brother to the middle sibling and Gigondas, the Grenache dominated appellation producing almost entirely red wines. This was bottle No. 7719 and gave an initial whiff of rose petals before turning somewhat cabbagey (not in a bad way though) with some plum or damson underneath. There was a light menthol aspect and smooth fruit, backed up by a firm tannic structure and complex secondary flavours on the finish. The Sabons believes \u201cGrenache really is the most interesting variety in Chateauneuf du Pape because “it joins smoothness and power, and gives all their complexity to wines<\/em>.\u201d And the Cuv\u00e9e Chaupin only uses this grape rather than the 18 allowed by the appellation<\/a>. This wine was a joy to drink, amazingly complex with the classic smoothness and sweetness of Grenache raised to another level. Fresh and light, with a sweet menthol nose and a creamy texture throughout and a mity sweet aspect. And so the end of the evening yet back to the beginning with a Loire Chenin Blanc, but this time a sweet Vouvray from the region\u2019s most celebrated producers. The wine was surprisingly acidic which balanced the high residual sugar; sweet but with a strong acid backbone, clean fresh and refreshing. There was a spicy tickle on the nose, candied sweet fruit with some caramel and honey. In style I\u2019d compare it to a sweet Spatlese or Auslese Riesling and relatively good value for a 75cl bottle. On the night the best wine was probably the Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape at \u00a345 but, at only \u00a311, the Janasse Viognier was not far behind and easily best value \u2013 a one-two for this excellent Rh\u00f4ne Estate.<\/p>\n Slainte!<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" February\u2019s NEWTS was a celebration of the range and character of French wines, subtitled \u201cif I could have just one more glass\u201d. Presenter and Society Chairman Geoff has been buying wine in France for 35 years, often returning to the … Continue reading
\nMaison L\u00e9on Beyer<\/a> Comtes d’Eguisheim<\/strong> 2005, Alsace (Pinot Gris, 14.0% abv, \u00a323.00).<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/3-generations-of-Beyer.jpg\" "\\"3")
<\/a>history dating back to 1580 (Yann-Leon Beyer, son of winemaker Marc Beyer is 14th generation) and has a reputation for being somewhat aloof in Alsace – Marc is a fierce critic of the local Grand Cru system for masking poorly made wine. Neither is he a fan of residual sugar, it \u201cmasks the imperfections<\/em>\u201d – for more information read the Schiller Wine blog post from January<\/a>– and the Comtes d’Eguisheim range are their top dry wines.<\/p>\n
\nA good 3 star wine.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Janasse.jpg\" "\\"Janasse\\"")
<\/a>Then to a producer that we\u2019ve had before at NEWTS, Domaine de la Janasse (last tasted<\/a>, the excellent 2004 Terres d\u2019Argile Cotes du Rhone Villages).
\nDomaine de la Janasse<\/a><\/strong> 2010 Viognier, IGP, Principaute d’Orange, Rh\u00f4ne (14.0% abv, \u00a311.00).<\/p>\n
\nThis was the best white on the night, 3+ stars.<\/p>\n
\nCh\u00e2teau la Voulte-Gasparets<\/a> Cuv\u00e9e Roman Pauc<\/strong> 2008, Corbieres-Boutenac, Languedoc (14.0% abv, \u00a318.00).
\nWhile Corbi\u00e8res is the region\u2019s largest appellation the small Boutenac part barely adds 1% to that total, but is regarded as one of the superioir terrooirs, a \u201cGrand Cru\u201d if you will, where Carignan rules. La Voulte Gasparet is a family estate run by Patrick Reverdy, the 6th generation of the Pauc, Grulet, Berg\u00e8s and Reverdy families at the Ch\u00e2teau.<\/p>\n
\nA bit of a rough-edged youngster but a pleasant 3 stars nonetheless.<\/p>\n
\nDomaine Les Amouriers<\/a> Cuv\u00e9e Signature<\/strong> 2010, Vacqueyras, Rh\u00f4ne (15.0% abv, \u00a39.00). Domaine Les Amouriers is run by Patrick Gras and Igor Chudzikiewicz who have 25 ha of vineyards across the southern Rh\u00f4ne worked to organic, low yield principles.<\/p>\n
\nAn entry level, 2+ star quaffer.<\/p>\n
\nDomaine les Goubert<\/a> Cuv\u00e9e Florence<\/strong> 2004, Gigondas, Rh\u00f4ne (14.5% abv, \u00a323.00).
\nDomaine les Goubert is another Southern Rhone estate with a long history, belonging to the Goubert family since 1636. Augusta Goubert\u2019s son, Jean-Pierre Cartier now runs it with his wife Mireille and daughter Florence, which the 80% Grenache 10% Syrah 10% Mouverdre wine is named for.<\/p>\n
\nSome in the room suggested this is over the hill but though I begged to differ; for me this was 3+ stars drinking beautifully and which I believe will continue to do so for another year or two.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.northeastwine.org.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Janasse2-388x300.jpg\" "\\"Janasse2\\"")
<\/a>And so to the eldest of the South Rh\u00f4ne siblings, the famous Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape and its interpretation by the old favourite, Domaine de la Janasse.
\nDomaine de la Janasse Cuv\u00e9e Chaupin<\/strong> 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape, Rh\u00f4ne (15.5% abv, \u00a345.00).<\/p>\n
\nThe wine\u2019s soft tannins were the only concern for me, maybe too much for such a young wine which could compromise its ageability, but right now it was a 3+ star wine to be enjoyed.<\/p>\n
\nDomaine Huet<\/a> Le Mont, Premi\u00e8re Trie<\/strong> 2009 Moelleux, Vouvray, Loire (Chenin Blanc, 12.5% abv, \u00a330.00).
\nThe Domaine was created in 1928 by Victor Huet and was run since 1976 by No\u00ebl Pinguet, son in law of the late Gaston Huet, Victor\u2019s son. The recent shock news to the wine world was that Pinguet has surprisingly left the estate – initially reported as acrimonious but later modified<\/a> to a more agreeable departure.
\nPremi\u00e8re Trie is \u201cfirst selection\u201d of the ripe (possibly botrytised?) grapes from the \u201cGrand Cru\u201d Le Mont vineyard, which produces wines of youthful minerality which age elegantly.<\/p>\n
\nVery good throughout and 3+ stars.<\/p>\n